THE HOW-DO-YOU-BARDOT MAILLOT
by Daughter Fish
Thank goodness for cool fronts. A breeze blows in Brooklyn, and my heat-induced rage over the weekend almost seems like a bad, very sweaty dream. In this new, peaceful state of mind I’ve been working to perfect my unitard pattern.
Hold up. I’m not going to call it a unitard anymore. That’s such a hard, cruel sounding word, don’t you think? Too close to a school-yard taunt (Smooth move, unitard!). How about we just go with “maillot,” as in the French word for bathing suit. Incorrect usage, perhaps, but I like the way it sounds.
Where my last maillot was “Grace Kelly goes to the beach,” I’m hoping this cranberry-and-white chevroned version lands somewhere between these:
Ideally more on the Brigitte side, with just a sprinkle of 80′s aerobics action. For the record, I’m sorry I made Jane look so mannish in that drawing. I’ll be a happy woman if I look even half (even a quarter!) as good as she does in her 70′s (yeah, that’s right, folks. born in 1937!).
I’m also counting this maillot toward this week’s Sew Weekly challenge, to make something nautically themed. If I were going to St. Tropez or taking out the yacht, I’d totally wear this outfit.
Unfortunately, we’re not making it to the Riviera this season. Far Rockaway? Certainly. Jones Beach? For realz! Montauk? If I’m lucky (and probably off-season).
Now I have a question for those of you expert jersey knit seamsters. My finishing techniques need some help. I need a good book or other resource to learn how to sew better with jersey or spandex (how to expertly finish necklines and sleeves, to gauge stretchiness for patterns, etc). Got any hot tips?
My serger and I are also having a lover’s quarrel. I used my regular sewing machine on this maillot, because I just can’t get the tension right on my serger (the seams keep pulling apart). Any books/videos/tutorials you love on serging?
This is so lovely! Your stripes even match on the sides. Very nice.
Thank you! I felt like it was a minor triumph to get those stripes to line up!:)
I’m digging this look christine. Very ladylike and cool and easy. You should definitely sell these when you do your shop. just dont match this w a long lace vest and hippie skirt. Ah the 90s.
Oh, no! You’ve just sent me down a rabbit hole of bad 90′s fashions! Sadly, I probably wore that outfit in high school:)
Genius! You’ve essentially turned a bathing suit into a street appropriate and lady-like ensemble. So perfect for this weather.
I think you should embrace the term “unitard”. Let it shine in all it’s glory, now that you’ve shed the high-waisted jeans that so long dragged those unitards down.
Does yours have a snap crotch?
That’s kind of a personal question!:) I’ve actually been thinking of the snap crotch…the only thing is, I’ve always found those sort of uncomfortable. The snaps always hit in the wrong spot, if you catch my drift. I am thinking of doing a thong version though, to wear with jeans.
As for unitard, I know you have a love of this word, as well as spandex!
I do love me some some spandex – although technically speaking this would be a ‘leotard’. The everyday version that was popular in the 90′s I believe was called a ‘body suit’.
Oh, and the thong version should probably be shiny, you know, for Jane.
This is terribly cute and you did an incredible job matching the stripes!
I wish I could help with the serger/finishing issues, but I have them myself. For those of us without cover-stitch machines, probably the best finishing option is either a narrow binding incorporating some narrow clear elastic, or just folding down (again, probably over some clear elastic) and topstitching with a triple zig-zag or a twin needle.
Does your serger do four threads or only three? Mine only does three and I theorize that the pulling-at-the-seams thing is less with a four-thread setup, but I haven’t been able to test it out, obviously. The three-thread setup seems to be best for finishing seams, but not for actually making them if they’re going to be under any kind of tension.
Ah, I’m glad to know I’m not alone with this issue. I have a four-thread machine. I’ve experimented a bunch with the tension, but can never seem to balance it so the those seams don’t pull apart. But I don’t think this is just a home sewer’s problem. I was in the Rag & Bone clothing store in Soho a few months back and noticed they had a ridiculously priced maxi dress, and the seams were pulling apart! Ugh. For now I think I’ll continue to sew the seams with my regular machine and try finishing with the three-thread on the serger, like you mention. Thanks for the feedback!
i’m afraid i’m no help either. i just set it at what the book says and slug some wine.
BUT! i did find a gorgeous how to at burdatsyle for using long strips of jersey to encase necklines and such, it doesn’t even have to be bias strips:
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/finish-for-jersey-neck-edges-using-twin-needle
you need a twin needle though!
The back is so exquisite. As for serging, does your manual have a guide to tell you how to adjust the tension to fix various problems? I find when sewing certain things I have to adjust my tension to be much different than the defaults. And tightening up the left needle tension made a big difference in creating a clean-looking seam
I’m going to try this left needle tension tip. My serger does have instructions, but I’ve found them kind of lacking. I’ve mostly been tightening the upper and lower looper and fiddling a bit with the needle tension, but so far I’ve still haven’t been able to get a seam as tight as I would on my regular machine. Thanks for the tip!
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This is so cute! Someone pinned one of your posts onto pinterest and now I love your site! I’m not sure if you’ve resolved your issues with serging but one good tip is if you stretch your garment on both sides of the needle, really stretch it, your stitches will not pop.
Oh, this is a good tip. I’m going to try it….although won’t stretching the fabric make it ripple? That’s what always happens to me when I stretch my jersey. Glad you found me!
I came back to comment on my comment, believing that my original tip of really stretching the fabric is only sort of correct. I have been sewing a ton of swimwear lately and when serging heavy lycra 4 way stretch it is ideal to really stretch as you sew. However, for regular lycra, not so much. You are right in your comment that it will make it ripple if you stretch it. I would hate to think that anyone might waste fabric using my original statement!
Plus, I’m not even sure I was giving you a tip that would help your original problem of the seams pulling apart. In my mind you were talking about the stitches popping when you pulled the seams lengthwise. Clearly you should not listen to me! lol!
Ha! Glad you stopped back by! I’ll have to try this on 4-way stretch. I don’t think I’ve ever sewn with it before!
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I love this! Make sure that you are threading your serger properly. You also want to use new “jersey” or “ballpoint” needles. You could rolled hem the edges using wooly nylon in the upper looper or you could do a cover stitch if you have that function on your machine. I know that Bernina makes a great reference book for sergers, but it is specific to Bernina’s and I’m not sure what kind of serger you have. Lastly, you could just overlock the edges, turn them under and then zig zag them on your sewing machine. Love this.
After I wrote this post, I learned about the ballpoint needles….although I still get some pulling at the seams, so I always go over my seams again with a straight stitch on my regular machineI’ll have to try the wooly nylon trick (unfortunately, don’t have a cover stitch!).